Monday, April 4, 2016

What to do in Kasol (Himachal Pradesh), India

The place needs no introduction.....one google session and you would be flooded with the information. Here, i wish to share a few things beyond the usual.

Firstly, don't go in a rush. The typical trip, beginning on the night of a Friday at New Delhi or some place in North and finishing on the morning of Monday back at the same point, will not be able to do justice to the place. Two days+one night is of no use. Plan on a longer weekend or take a whole week off if not a fortnight or you would be depressed while leaving the place.

Secondly, Kasol is a beautiful town that is (unfortunately) no longer as quaint and peaceful as it used to be a few years back. Too much of construction, too much of litter, too much of insensitive crowd.....and yet the place remains beautiful with all its sadness. It is good enough for a walk, a bit of shopping, some great meals here and there and coffee breaks BUT stay???? A big NO.So, you need to look around to find a good place to stay and enjoy what this area offers the best - nature in all its splendor. In any case, post punitive action against unlicensed businesses, encroacher and free loaders in December 2017, many known places, both hotels and eateries, stand sealed as of now (April 2017 ...updated). Some details HERE .

Thirdly, having understood that Kasol is just a reference point and there is much more to see, absorb and soak, categorise the things you want to do. A quick darshan at Manikaran (must have the langar in the holy Gurudwara) may help you do away with the accumulated guilt of the trip. If you are staying at Suma Ropa (best option with drive in facilities) or Katagala (equally good but no road connectivity and shall need some amount of leg exercise) or Chalal (its OK), take a walk to Kasol through the forest that runs along the far bank of Parvati River. At a lesiurely pace, you may reach Kasol from Colonel's Wood Cottage DACHA  in an hour or so, lounge around and have a cup of coffee or a glass (or two) of beer and a meal and catch a bus to get back. If you have come from Chalal, you will have to go back same route (that is why other two places offer more variety). You may venture into Grahan Nalla or Rasol or areas overlooking Katagla Village  or Kheer Ganga  or even Malana next. Do take a guide with you if you are going off the main tracks. There is not much of wild life (but you never know) and crime rate is zero (unless smoking grass is a crime) and yet knowledge of the terrain is a big help.

For the guys staying at Suma Ropa, a hidden treasure in the form of a huge waterfall awaits them. The fall is what makes Jai Nalla near Suma Ropa but the route is tricky and guidance is strongly recommended.

For those with stronger legs, Sar Pass, Chanderkhani Pass and Pin Parvati Trek are the options but these need time and professional help of good standards. A visit to famous Malana Village, however, is no big deal now that road is just about one hour away. It used to be more than 10 hours of trekking earlier. Malana village, however, is dirty, muck filled and inhabited by people who treat all other human beings as lesser mortals despite living in one of the dirtiest villages of Dev Bhoomi. But the architecture and longevity of the village structures and its culture do make it an attractive place to visit. Malana Cream, however, is a thing of past for most visitors who get conned when they look for it and pay for something else.

Most importantly, while all those walks and treks are happening, find time to have longish sessions of 'do nothing' types. Just sit in the balcony with your legs resting on its railings and soak in the views. For that matter, very few properties can beat Colonel's Dacha.

A day or two at Tosh will add to the fun. Snow bound for more than four months in a year, it is a small village beyond the present day road head. Tosh Rooms is a well-managed property there. A day long trek to Kheer Ganga can be done from there. Starting and finishing at Tosh saves time and makes it more user friendly. Relax in the evening and get back to wherever you want to be the next day. Otherwise, Kheer Ganga is best done over two days with a night stay on top. This is strongly RECOMMENDED trek for all those who can walk a bit.....a must do, in fact!

Villagers around Kasol, even Malana and Katagla, have their rich traditions and culture. Many villages don't allow visitors wearing leather goods. It is, thus, better to  go with a guide so as to maintain sanctity of such beautiful places.

Post raids of December 2017, many eateries and most of the famous restaurants had been shut but jugaad works well here like anywhere else. So, while such niches are shut, owners have started similar things next door. So, even if you take old names, you will reach their new avataar. Evergreen, Moon Dance, Soni etc are best places to eat.

One important issue is of taking a dip in hot water springs at Manikaran. Both Gurudwara and Mandir (Mata as well as Ram Mandir) have the facilities and are pretty good. Such dips are very good for pains and aches. For those who want a better place to have the dip, try hot bath facilities inside Forest Department complex at Kasol. For a nominal fee, you can have a great time.


Happy Tripping!